Posts Tagged ‘suited connectors’

First Live Poker

Hello,

Finally I was able to play live poker in a real casino. Supposedly, I’m going to try tourneys but I haven’t found any tourney scheduled therefore I just tried cash game.

I decided to play at Caesar’s Indiana riverboat for I heard before it expanded and has actually modernized its poker room, I wanted to see with my own two eyes the said changes.

First I chose what kind of game. I then chose the cheapest blinds in a no limit, $1/$2. What was quite surprising about their blinds was that they never change or increase. Room has pagers that will inform you when to come back in case you go out to test out other tables.

As expected, you have to wait for your name to be called and then later in case go immediately to the cashier to buy chips. Well, my table then had a min buy-in of $100 and a maximum of $300.

Just an advice then, buy in for the table max. Then do it for three reasons. First, others will notice and will make judgments about your play and eventually may gun for you if in case you show up with less. Second, to win over a typical run of bad cards, losses, etc. you must have sufficient chips right in front of you. Third, maximize your profit in case you get lucky and have a monster hand and later hook someone into a huge clash. Remember that the more chips you have the more you can make eventually.

At some point, I finally sat down at the table with my $300. Dealer then immediately approached me if I want to come in right away or wait for the button then. I decided to wait however something came up. Every half an hour, anyone sitting at the table has to give $6 to Caesar for the honor of playing. I guess it was a some kind of a table tax. To continue, well, I finally started playing. There was one thing I suddenly noticed, there wasn’t much pre-flop raise less than $10, $15 and even $20 was not unusual. Unlike in my home game experience, a typical pre-flop raise is 3-5 times the big blind. After such discovery, I decided to play a little tighter than usual. However, whenever I played a pot, I became aggressive.

Unluckily, for quite a while, my cards sucked. I then tried to be fortunate with suited connectors, low pairs, etc. but then still gradually lost some chips. Then I got JJ, raised while everyone else folded. Finally, I won $3. I was very happy. So at such point I already have a rock image at the table because of my lousy run of cards.

Next hand I had was pocket Ks. I then raised same amount but got three callers. To check if I will later on win or lose, I bet out about 1/3 of the pot. Two players folded. Then I called. Turn came and brought A. I then bet again while he called. River came but of no help. I then checked while he bet big. After a while he showed an Ace. Luckily, I won an all in showdown, doubled up and ended up winning $50 on the day after 5.5 hours.

Any thoughts?

Hope to hear from you soon.

Best regards,
Joe
Joe,

In the hand you called the big bet on, you should have probably folded. They had an apparent pair of Aces and you were beat.

As far as your other play, over it sounded ok, but you were a little card dead. Be careful with suited connector and try to only play them when you can see the flop cheap.

Finally, the $6 fee was a time payment by each player. Chances are they did not pull any rake at this table. If they took the fee and charged a rake, then I would play at this table anymore as you are feeding the casino too much money.

I Don’t Have Enough Discipline

Hi,

I’ve been into poker for quite some time now. As of the moment, I consider myself a good player. I believe I can be like a pro if I just work on some of my weak areas like discipline.

Most of the time, I play online. And because I don’t have much money I oftentimes play in 25 and 50 dollar NL tables. I heard your three stages and they sound really interesting to me. Well, I believe I’m in the third stage but I don’t have enough discipline. Almost every time I find myself falling in love with trash hands, suited connectors especially from bad position.

Now, I want to know if you have any advice for me. And about trash hands and one or two gap connectors, is it worth the risk to play such hands and possibly go on hoping to break someone and eventually build a table image?

Thanks a lot!

Best regards,
Devrick
Devrick,

As far as discipline, you need to go back to a tight strategy for a while. The only way to fix this is to develop a plan and stick to it. Being disciplined requires making correct choices and sticking with them.

Different Game Types

Hi,

I’m done reading Sklansky’s book, the one about holdem for advanced players. Sklansky said that small pairs or sets like action games while small and middle suited connectors on the flip side like more passive games. Is this true and why is this so?

Hope to hear from you in no time!

Thank you in advance.

Regards,
Jake
Jake,

Small pairs and sets are good for big action games as when you hit your set, you will be able to extract money. Suited connectors are speculative hands that need help to improve. If you play these hands in aggressive games, you will bleed off chips when you don’t hit your hand, which will be frequent.

On Various Stack Sizes

Hello,

I have some questions to ask. They are actually related to some stuff I’ve come to discover without any intentions.

In some discussion sections, I’ve come to hear about No Limit Texas Holdem being something related to Deep Stack No Limit or extreme short stack No Limit. In the first one, you can actually play a wide variety of starting hands as the implied odds are excellent. The post flop play is also much complex as bluffing is much more helpful and useful. In the second one, position is very vital as a hand like ATo may be an allin hand right after several limpers in the event you are on the button, however in the event you are under the gun, an easy fold. In connection with this, say in a game, suited connectors seem like of no worth as you will never hit your hand enough while pocket pairs are valuable due to their value. Post flop play on the other hand is more on all-ins and folding.

Now, what hands become more or less playable in no limit games with medium stack? Say in a 1/2 game with effective stacks of $100, I’ll call $10 raises heads up with medium and low pocket pairs to try have a set. In case there no callers would appear, I might call a not so high raise but if in case I’m up against a good player I might fold a PP to a raise to avoid a beat. Then say suited connectors’ value is seriously dependent on the aggressiveness of the game and your position as well, earlier, you will most likely fold but later I’ll limp in when there’s a cheap multi-way flop.

On the other hand, high card hands like AK are where my stress level goes up. More or less in deep stack events on a K98 flop, I’ll fold my AK when things get worst. However in short stack events, it would be a different story. In medium stack events, I’ll be right on the fence.

Oftentimes, when I raise $10 preflop, I’ll get one caller and then flop would appear K98. I’ll then bet about $20 and they’ll push their 90$ stack in. In the end, I’ll get irritated. At times, I’ll be tempted to lay down all as I seem to fold more pretty good hands compared to my opponents at the table.

Now, here are my questions:

1. Is there anything I need to adjust when it comes to my pre-flop raising, limping and raise-calling requirements? And because such games tend to be aggressive post flop particularly online, do you think hands as suited connectors go down in terms of value due to lack of odds to draw? Do I need to call generously in late position or else it should be a no-set-no-bet level of tightness? What do you think?

2. In such games, how should I play marginal hands? I believe in deep stack no limit you don’t want to bet your stack but in short stack you will do everything to have your chips in the middle. How about in medium stack?

3. Say somebody is putting pressure on your head as he has something that could beat you or else just know you are playing tight, how would you play? What will be your defense?

4. When you are in position, what are the moves you should use?

   
   

5. Do you think there is a reason for you to semi-bluff with your primary draw in games where everyone overvalues their hands? Or else just stick to calling in the event you have implied odds or the like?

Thanks for your time.

Regards,
Nickerson
Nickerson,

1. As far as your preflop play, I would stick with trying to see flops cheap with a wide array of reasonable hands. Obviously you want to raise with strong hands, but otherwise, try to see a cheap flop and hope to hit it hard. As far as calling a raise, I would tend to stick with stronger hands to call raises, unless there is a lot of action. Then you can widen the range some, but not get too crazy.

   Hands such as suited connectors do go down in value when the betting is very aggressive post flop. If you play suited connectors, make sure that they are on the higher side to give you better odds of hitting top pair or two pair. In late position after the flop, what you call depends on what you are holding and the number of players and the opponent you are playing. Sometimes playing super tight is right. Sometimes it’s right to call. Poker is situational. It depends on what is going on at the time.

2. With marginal hands, I would try and see cheap flops for the ones that I do play. This is a form of small ball poker. Get in cheap and then punish your opponents when you do hit well.

3. One of two things can be done here. Switch to playing small ball and punish him when your hands hit the flop well or play tight and punish him when your big hands hit. Don’t go crazy and randomly raise or play hands that have no value. This will just bleed your stack.

4. In position, I would bet out on the flop when checked to me a little more often. Semi-bluffing is obviously one tool you should use as well. Raising when you have no hand is something I would reserve for players that I deem that are just trying to steal the pot.

5. When players overvalue their hands, I would stick with calling in the event you miss your draw. When you semi-bluff, you still must hit in order to win. If players overvalue their hands, a bluff will not force them off their hands.